In recent years, countless new filaments have been introduced, each with a unique set of properties. One of them, PETG, has gained a lot of popularity, and rightfully so. It’s stronger and more durable than ABS, yet it prints as easily as PLA.
PETG is incredibly alluring because it’s compatible with almost any fused deposition modeling (FDM) printer, has many good qualities, and is reasonably priced. However, since it’s relatively new, many people don’t yet know how to correctly print with it.
Although we can provide some typical ranges, there’s no perfect universal print temperature for PETG. Each brand of filament is slightly different, and it’s best that you first try the manufacturer’s recommended settings.
If the manufacturer doesn’t provide settings or you’re not getting the results you want, don’t worry! We’re here to help. In this article, we’ll go over everything you need to determine the perfect temperature for your particular brand of PETG.
Although there’s a general range of temperatures that work best for PETG, you must determine the precise temperature for your particular spool of filament.
The easiest way to find the best temperature is through trial and error. Conduct many test prints and compare results. Each print should be done at a low speed, to ensure that the only factor affecting printing is temperature.
Start at the bottom of the given range, and print tests at 5 °C intervals. Look out for the common effects of temperature being too high or low, which we’ll discuss below. Once you have explored printing throughout the entire range, compare your prints and determine which temperature produced the best results with your filament.
If you don’t mind playing around with G-code, an even faster method to determine the ideal temperature is to use a temperature tower. If all goes well, you’ll only need to run a single test.
Similar to ABS, PETG requires much hotter temperatures than PLA. In general, the hot end should be heated to between 220 and 250 °C.
If the layers of the print don’t adhere, your temperature is too low. This is a common problem, so ensure that the hot end temperature is high enough.
If you observe stringing on the print or clumping around the nozzle, the temperature is too hot.
Despite this, PETG will normally print without defects within the given range.
Unlike ABS, PETG doesn’t require a heated bed, as it doesn’t undergo nearly as much warping. That being said, you may experience more or fewer bed adhesion issues depending on the quality and brand of PETG you’re using.
Therefore, it’s very helpful to still heat your print bed. If you do, temperatures between 50 and 80 °C will help ensure that the extruded filament sticks. (Some makers even claim to print at temperatures as high as 100 °C!)
Start in the middle of the range, 65 °C, and see how well your first layer adheres to the bed. If you see the need for improvements, adjust the temperature by 5 °C either up or down depending on what you’re seeing.
As with hot end temperatures, incorrect temperatures for the bed may result in certain defects. If the bed is too hot, it’s very common to experience a phenomenon known as elephant’s foot.
Alternatively, if the filament isn’t properly sticking to the bed, it may be too cold. Naturally, this can also happen if you’re printing without a heated bed. The best way to solve this problem would be to apply some sort of adhesive to the surface, such as a glue stick or blue painter’s tape.
In addition to temperature, there are a few other factors that can help you achieve great PETG prints.
Overall, PETG is generally very easy to print with, as it requires neither an enclosure nor a heated bed, making it compatible with virtually all FDM printers. It combines ease of printing with great strength and durability, making it a great filament choice for any print.
License: The text of "The Best PETG Bed & Print Temperature Settings" by All3DP is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.