This small, square-shaped, 3D printed lamp, with a sleek futuristic design, is powered by battery, charged wirelessly and will glow for 90 minutes on a single charge.
Who doesn’t love lamps? They are a cool and fun way to add some unique flair to just about any space, be it an office, bedroom or living room.
To be fair, when thinking of 3D printing, lamps aren’t normally the first thing that springs to mind. But with the exponentially growing possibilities of 3D printing, you can now create and design your own lamps and lampshades for just about any usage. We at All3DP love lamps and lampshades of all shapes and sizes, especially if they are 3D printed. So this week’s project seems to be our cup of tea.
MyMiniFactory creator Jonathan Odom has enlightened us with his design of a 3D printed lamp. This small – futuristic looking – lamp charges wirelessly, can be picked up and used as a lantern for up to 90 minutes. So basically this is a two-in-one gadget. Of the top of our head, we would say the ideal nightstand lamp or cut out for long summer nights in the garden. But the possibilities are almost limitless. You will surely find a suited place, where it brightens up your life.
So without further ado, let’s take a look at what you need and how to assemble the lamp.
This 3D printed lamp consists of seven printed parts and the electrical interior. Here is a detailed listing of the parts and tools needed for this project.
The 3D printable STL files are available for free on Instructables.
The size of the lamp is a 127mm x 127mm cube, so any FDM desktop printer with a bed at least that size will work just fine. You can resize the parts obviously, but then the electrical parts will not fit their casing.
The print itself is pretty straight forward. However, it turns out the placement of the lens, on the printing platform, has a huge effect on the lightning effect of the translucent object. In the left picture, the face of the lens was placed flat on the printing bed, reducing the amount of support needed, but also resulting in ridges around the top of the lens and the clearly visible checkerboard pattern.
When placing the three corners of the lens on the printing bed – as shown in the right picture – a whole lot of support is needed But, the results are more concentric layers around the lens’ corners, therefore hiding the variations within the lens and creating a more uniform look.
Apart from that, you are good to go. In the pictures provided, the maker usedfor the lens and for the housing. But feel free to go to town regarding color selection.
For the lamp’s interior, you will need the following:1. Universal Qi Wireless Charging Transmitter – plugs into a USB power source and emits 3.7V power through a copper coil. The other end goes inside the charging base.
2. Universal Qi Wireless Receiver Module – receives transmitted power through a copper coil. It goes inside the lamp.
3. Micro Lipo w/MicroUSB Jack – USB LiIon/LiPoly charger – stabilizes the power coming through the wireless receiver, ensuring constant 3.7V.
4. Lithium Ion Battery – 3.7v 2000mAh – a standard rechargeable battery, powered through the Micro Lipo charger.
5. 1 Watt Cool White LED – Heatsink Mounted – a heatsink mounted, bright, LED powered by 3.7V. It plugs into the battery.
6. DC3-250V SPST Panel Mount Self-Locking Metal Push Button Switch 16mm – a standard latching switch that turns the LED on and off.
All you need for this project is a soldering iron and a small screwdriver.
Let’s dive right into the assembly. We are proving you with a detailed overview of the whole process. Basically, there are two housings, the base, and the lamp, that hold all the components. Let’s look at it step by step.
While you are waiting for your prints to finish you can start off on the electronics.
Get your soldering iron ready and add one pair of wires to the board, as shown above. The black and red wires, pre-soldered to the board, are used to hook up the wireless receiver. The black terminal connects the battery and the added wires on top will be used for powering the LED.
Once you have soldered the extra wiring to the board it is time to assemble the lamp. The first step is to hot-glue the wireless receiver pad to the recess at the bottom of the lamp housing.
Next up is to place the battery and LED lamp into the 3D printed cradle. The circuit board should be glued to the side of the housing, as well as any loose wires, to keep it from blocking any light. The switch is wired in as a breaker between the LED and the charger, as shown below.
If you have finished the lamp’s interior, you can take a deep breath and relax. The hard part is over. The charging dock assembly is super fast and easy.
Again start off by press-fitting the charging coil part into the recess on the underside of the dock. Carefully fixate it with the 3D printed brace and two screws to keep it in place.
Next, place the circuit board with the USB terminals on the upper level and also carefully fixate it with screws. Watch out to not screw to tight as the plastic may break and you have to start over your print. Then just close it up with the base plate and some screws at the bottom and the charging base should be ready to go.
The charging base circuit board has cutouts for both USB and Mini USB. Just plug it in, charge the lamp and brighten up your day.