Even the Ender 3 is only great if it's calibrated correctly. Check out this Ender 3 calibration guide to quickly learn how to calibrate your Ender 3.
Creality released theto continue the legacy of their immensely popular CR-10, and it turns out the machine was a worthy successor. At about $200, the Ender 3 has made a lasting impression on the 3D printing community with its amazing value-for-money. In fact, because of its unusually high performance at this price point, many call it the best beginner printer.
Some calibration, however, is a normal requirement for 3D printers. After all, these machines are tasked with being repetitively accurate for hours on end, so fine-tuning of their mechanical components is expected. Let’s explore some of the calibration steps that your Ender 3 can benefit from in this guide.
Creality 3D printers are known to offer good value, but quality control is something that they lack. As a result, many of the printers that they sell may not be fully tightened.
It’s up to the user to make sure that all the screws are tight, which may seem like a silly idea but the difference it could make is surprising. It will not only remove issues like ghosting but also reduce the number of possible failures which will make troubleshooting later on much easier.
Another very easy yet important step is to correctly level your bed. It’s one of the most crucial adjustments but also one of the easiest to miss. Adjusting the bed on the Ender 3 is a very simple and quick task that instantly improves the surface quality (if it’s not already adjusted).
Here’s how it’s done:
For a more in-depth tutorial, check out our dedicated Ender 3 bed leveling article.
If you’re having problems with under- or over-extrusion, then there is a possibility that your extruder’s E-steps aren’t calibrated. In order to find the right E-steps, you will first have to do a little bit of math. Using a simple formula, we can calculate the new E-step with only three inputs.
Fortunately, you can tighten the belts by unscrewing the brackets that hold the bearings and moving them so that there’s sufficient tension between the stepper motor and bearing. It shouldn’t be super tight or super loose, just somewhere in between.
Another very important thing to adjust on the Ender 3 is the eccentric nuts. These nuts are located under the bed and on the X-carriage. They can be tightened by rotating them until they get tight with the wrench that comes with the printer. The eccentric nuts should be so tight that you can’t rotate or tilt the bed, but not so tight that it inhibits motion. The easiest way to do this is by loosening all the nuts and then tightening them again until the bed is firm.
The X-carriage should also be adjusted this way. What you’re looking for is a horizontal carriage that doesn’t have too much resistance when moving up and down.
If you’re hungry for more general information on optimizing a 3D printer, here are a few more articles you might be interested in:
Feature image source: notenoughtech.com
License: The text of "Ender 3 Calibration: How to Calibrate Your Ender 3" by All3DP is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
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