Most modern-day sheet glass is called float glass, referring to how it’s produced. It’s made by subjecting materials such as silica, soda, and lime to extreme temperatures, melting them into a liquid state that’s then “floated” onto a bed of flat molten metal, like tin. This gives the glass sheet uniform thickness and a very flat surface, which is easily cut. The following are some varieties of float glass:
Safety glass is made using an advanced process so that, when broken, it shatters into many tiny fragments, lowering the possibility of injury. Example applications of safety glass include large glass doors and automobile glass. Due to its nature, it is not suitable for the home enthusiast to attempt cutting.
The information that follows discusses how to successfully cut float glass products.
The techniques that follow range from basic simple home skills to advanced tricks used in large scale glass fabrication plants. A key element to keep in mind is to always practice safety first when working with glass.
Wear the appropriate protective clothing and cut-resistant gloves. Cracked glass can be very dangerous to handle, especially in large sheets. A small crack, called a runner, can expand in tenths of a second, leaving you with a broken sheet and possibly many hours in the local ER.
Furthermore, cut glass is extremely sharp. Care should be taken when handling and smoothing the edges.
A simple straight cut in glass up to around 6 mm thick is a fairly easy process and can be accomplished with a minimum of tools and expense. Most local hardware stores will carry the basic stick-type glass cutter. To use this cutter with the best effect, here are a few simple tricks:
As a side note, there are other ways to cut a piece of glass, such as using string soaked in alcohol or kerosene. These methods do work but result in a very imperfect cut. Keeping dimensions accurate is almost impossible and setup generally requires pans that are large enough to submerge your entire piece of glass.
There are a wide variety of bottle cutters on the market, from relatively inexpensive handheld tools to high-end bandsaws.
If you’re looking for the best bang for your buck, we recommend a cutter that locks around the bottle. Basic tools that use a single cutting head are more difficult to get a clean consistent mark all the way around the glass. This leads to rough edges and a lot more work in the finishing department later on.
Bottle cutter steps:
Once a cut has been scribed around the bottle, it can then can be tapped onto a solid surface to complete the cut. If you’re having difficulties making the final break, use an oil lamp to heat around the cut, then submerge the bottle into a bucket of room temperature water, mouth of the bottle first, and it should cleanly pop off.
Making curved cuts in a flat sheet of glass can be more challenging, but it’s still within the realm of the home enthusiast. The key is to apply constant pressure, keeping your cutter at an angle of about 75 degrees to the glass.
Curve cutting steps:
Getting the hang of cutting curves can take a few tries, but it definitely makes for some interesting edges!
Once you’ve made your cut, whether straight, round, or curved, you’ll have a sharp edge that can be very dangerous until you smooth it down. Professional fabrication plants use a diamond edging wheel, but such machines are normally out of reach of most hobbyists and enthusiasts.
A much more affordable method is to use a carbide wet sandpaper. 280–360 grit is best.
Smoothing a Straight Cut
Smoothing a Bottle Cut
The steps for a bottle cut are much the same, however, instead of moving the bottle back and forth, use circular motions while holding it at a 30-degree angle against the sandpaper. This will remove the sharp outer edge.
To sand the inside edge, affix your sandpaper to a tongue depressor or popsicle stick. Never use your finger under the sandpaper because the edge could slice right through and cause injury. Dip the sanding stick into your turpentine mixture and hold the stick with the wetted paper at a 30-degree angle. Start working your way all around the glass. Continue until you wear off the sharp inner edge.
Smoothing a Curved Cut
Again, the steps are very similar, but now you’ll be affixing your sandpaper to a rounded 1/2-inch dowel. Dip the sanding stick into your turpentine mixture and hold the stick with the wetted paper at a 30-degree angle.
Once you’ve worked your way across one side of the cut, flip your glass over and repeat the same process.
Finally, taking a 1/2-inch by 6-inch piece of wetted sandpaper, hold both ends of the paper and work it back and forth across the edge as a final polish.
As technology improves, newer, faster, and safer ways of cutting glass enter the market. Diamond-gritted bandsaws are now more widely used to make curved cuts into a thicker, harder glass, and waterjet tables can now cut glass with ease. Belt sanders, equipped with sump beds that pump cooling agent, can edge a piece of glass in moments.
While most of this equipment is still beyond the reach of the average hobbyist, prices are slowly dropping, and the technology is making its way into smaller niche shops.
Feature image source: zen Sutherland / Flickr