Whether you’re looking to create more than 3D printed parts or just expand the materials you work with, laser cutting and engraving is an excellent choice. It lets you work with other materials besides plastic and doesn’t require much experience.
But perhaps the best part is that this technology can be retrofitted from a 3D printer with no hassle. The motion system of 3D printers far exceeds the requirements for laser cutting, and laser diode modules can be as small as hot end assemblies.
Converting a 3D printer into a laser cutter and engraver is quite a decision. In this article, we’ll talk about laser technology in general, go over the necessary safety precautions, and then discuss the main steps for transforming your 3D printer.
Lasers 101
Laser cutting is a process where a laser beam selectively removes material along a determined path by vaporizing it. Engraving is basically the same, but instead of removing material, it marks the surface, altering its appearance through oxidization.
Two primary laser technologies are used for desktop fabrication: CO2 and diode. CO2 lasers are powerful enough for cutting through most materials, including some metals, and are broadly used for industrial applications.
However, CO2 laser machines are bulky and require somewhat expensive fragile hardware like CO2 tubes, mirrors, and lenses. On the other hand, diode lasers are lightweight and relatively cheap. They are mostly composed of a single small module.
Diode lasers are way less powerful than CO2, suited for engraving and cutting thin sheets of balsa and plywood. For comparison, a CO2 laser can output as much as 400 W of power, while diode lasers can do only 10 W maximum.
Safety Requirements
Laser machines are perfectly safe for home use if they’re properly maintained, operated, and meet all safety requirements.
If you’re considering converting your 3D printer into a laser cutter/engraver, then you must inform yourself about the hazards of such equipment. The primary safety concerns are fire hazards, toxic fumes, and vapors released during the cutting/engraving process, and any exposure to the laser beam itself.
To avoid fire hazards, never leave the system unattended during a cutting/engraving job and always keep the interior of the machine and surrounding areas free of debris and flammable materials. Having a fire extinguisher nearby is also a good practice.
In regards to toxic fumes, laser machines can be operated indoors as long as they’re in a well-ventilated room and have a proper exhaust system in place. An enclosure is essential to avoid exposure to these vapors, and you also have to ensure that you can safely work on the materials you’re cutting/engraving.
Last but not least, Class 4 lasers can cause serious eye injury, so proper goggles are mandatory at all times. The laser beams generated by diode modules are the most hazardous and require specific goggles for particular wavelengths. Check with the manufacturer to determine exactly which goggles are required, and get yourself a pair of high-quality ones.
Other general safety practices include keeping children and pets away from the machine during the operation and ensuring maintenance is always up to date. Using a proper work surface for the laser machine is also highly recommended.
Is It for You?
If the safety requirements haven’t already scared you off, there are a few other considerations before deciding whether to move forward with the conversion.
It can be quite daunting to convert a 3D printer into a CO2 laser machine, considering the tube sizes and complicated mirror system. For this reason, we’re better off sticking to diode lasers.
Keep in mind, however, that these lasers can only cut a handful of materials like paper, cardboard, and 3- to 5-mm thick balsa and plywood. Due to the laser wavelength, it can’t cut or engrave transparent materials like acrylic.
So, consider all safety and practical considerations before deciding to convert your 3D printer into a laser machine.
How to Do It
The process of converting a 3D printer into a laser machine varies but generally covers the same steps.
First off, we need to choose the laser module that best fulfills our requirements (functionality and price, for example). Then, we have to figure out how to adapt it to the printer’s electronics and physical interface.
The Laser Module
Powerful solid-state lasers are a relatively recent development, but the market quickly caught up with the demand for diode laser modules.
Laser power invariably ranges between 1 to 10 W. Some white-label lasers you may see online are listed as 30 or even 40 watts, but that’s definitely not optical output power.
The power will define which materials can be engraved and whether it can cut materials like wood (and how thick). Laser manufacturers usually provide a list of materials that can be engraved and cut, so be sure to check that.
An adjustable focal length, which you’ll sometimes see as an advertised feature, is not truly important here since the 3D printer’s Z-axis can raise or lower the module to match the fixed distance.
Air assist is an interesting feature, as it blows air directly onto the surface to dispel particles interfering with the laser, providing much cleaner cuts. Some lasers have this feature built-in.
Compatibility & Wiring
Most laser modules can be wired directly into the 3D printer’s controller board. The part cooling fan on a 3D printer requires a variable-power output for controlling its speed, and it’s this port that can power and control the laser.
Some lasers require a dedicated 12-V power input. This is usually done through a separate driver board that can be powered either from the printer’s PSU unit or an external power supply. This setup also requires connecting to the printer via the fan port.
Do refer to the laser manufacturer’s documentation for proper wiring instructions.
Installation
Installing and mounting the laser module is perhaps the only major hardware change in this entire conversion process. While many lasers come with custom brackets, some sort of adaptation will always be required.
Luckily you already have a 3D printer, so nearly anything is possible. You might be able to find designs for attachments in repositories like Thingiverse and Printables that match your module and 3D printer.
If not, maybe it’s time to try some 3D modeling software like Tinkercad. The model doesn’t need to be fancy, just an interface between the holes and screws that will hold the hot end.
Once you’ve attached the laser module to your 3D printer, that’s basically it! However, you might need to consider some new firmware to start engraving or cutting.
Next Steps
A laser cutter and engraver is one of the coolest machines you can have in your home, as it lets you make stuff with a wider range of materials than extruded plastic filament. A laser cutter and engraver is one of the coolest machines you can have in your home, as it lets you make stuff with a wider range of materials than extruded plastic filament.
If you remain committed to doing it, there are a number of products available from printer manufacturers and third parties. Creality has special laser kits for adding (not replacing) laser modules into the Ender 3 (V2/Pro/Max) and 5, as well as for the 3 S1 (Pro).
Be sure to check some step-by-step tutorials too. Instructables user Gosse Adema has documented their Anet A8 conversion into a laser cutter and engraver, while the YouTube channel Teaching Tech shows how to do it on any 3D printer.