The V3 generation of Ender 3 is somewhat more varied than the last, and the V3 KE highlights that. It includes all the Ender 3 V3 SE’s features and adds several interesting firsts in the Ender 3 series.

For one, the KE is the first Ender 3 to include a linear rail – which serves as the X-axis motion system – and the first to come with the Sprite extruder’s new ceramic heater block – which appears similar to the Creality K1‘s hot end – as stock. Leading up to that hot end is a titanium alloy heatbreak that makes the KE all metal and able to print up to 300 ºC.

It’s also the first 3D printer in the Ender 3 series to come with Creality OS firmware – a custom version of Klipper. That means the KE includes Klipper’s input shaping and pressure advance features, but it’s worth noting that we found Creality OS somewhat limiting in the K1. Still, Klipper input shaping is likely what gives the KE its faster print speed, which Creality pegs at 500 mm/s.

Creality Ender-3 V3 KE

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Creality released a more premium branch of the Ender 3 family last year, the Ender 3 S1 series, and we were impressed. Its standard variant promptly earned a place among our top picks, and can be found for a significantly reduced $266 today.

Out of the box, the S1 comes with Creality’s CR Touch automatic bed-leveling (ABL) probe, the “Sprite” direct extruder in a standard variation, dual Z-axis lead screws, and a flexible PC-coated magnetic print bed. Input shaping was even added post-release, which was a first in the series. The S1 was a large step toward more hands-off 3D printing.

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The “Pro” version of the Ender 3 S1 added a few more comfort features to the basic S1. It includes an overhead LED light, touchscreen UI, and (more practically) an all-metal version of the Sprite direct extruder.

That all-metal Sprite extruder means the S1 Pro has a fair hot end temperature increase compared to the standard S1, being able to hit 300 °C and allowing for the printing of more exotic filaments such as nylon, carbon fiber, ASA, and more. The bed also now hits 110 °C and is PEI-coated instead of PC-coated.

There is a somewhat odd weight discrepancy between the Ender 3 S1 and S1 Pro. The S1 Pro weighs just 8.7 kg – lighter than the standard S1’s 9.1 kg despite the added overhead light. Creality has attributed this to the system’s base: the S1 Pro uses a plastic integrated molding instead of the S1’s heavier sheet metal base. We didn’t find the lighter base detrimental in our testing, though.

Upgraded Downgrade?

Creality Ender 3 S1 Pro Review: Worth the Upgrade?

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The final entrant in the Ender 3 S1 family is the Ender 3 S1 Plus – a variant of the mid-sized Ender 3 Max. Aside from the larger 300 x 300 x 300 mm build volume that is this printer’s main selling point and some flashy red leveling nuts, the Plus has a mix of features between the S1 and S1 Pro – but is more akin to the standard S1.

The Plus has all the S1’s standard features: a CR touch, dual Z lead screws, and belt tensioners all stock. It also has the S1 pro’s fancy 4.3-inch touchscreen, and a metal-body Sprite extruder – but do note that it’s not an all-metal extruder like on the S1 Pro.

The Plus’ extruder is somewhat deceptively marketed as “full-metal”, but forgoes the S1 Pro’s titanium heat break that allows it to print at high temperatures and makes that version of the Sprite all-metal. Instead, the Plus has a more typical throat tube with Teflon, like the standard S1’s plastic extruder rated for 260 °C. We’re not sure the metal extruder body’s extra weight is worth it without higher heat potential, especially with a taller gantry.

All Sizes Are Beautiful

Creality Ender 3 S1 Plus Review: Bigger & Better?

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Creality’s “Neo” series is a refresh of the basic Ender 3s that updated the 3D printers’ features while maintaining low prices following the Ender 3 S1 release. They were a great alternative for those turned off from the S1 series’ higher release prices.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo adopted the S1 upper gantry with its angular covers over the Z passive blocks and the PC-coated print bed, and, like all Neos, Creality’s CR Touch auto bed leveling probe. That’s where the S1 similarities end. The V2 Neo’s base is the same as the first Ender 3 V2 and it uses a metal Bowden extruder with a hot end that includes a larger corrugated heat sink for an enlarged radiating area, resulting in more reliable heat dissipation.

The Ender 3 V2 Neo is now $166 and, though certainly inexpensive, we’d find the V3 SE’s new features extremely high-value for the ~$23 price difference.

Red Pill Blue Pill

Creality Refreshes Original Ender 3s With Its New "Neo" Series

Creality Ender 3 V2 Neo

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The Ender 3 Max Neo received some of our favorite upgrades in the Neo series refresh. Key among them is a second Z-axis lead screw that compliments the printer’s mid-sized gantry, complete with a synchronizing belt. The Max has also received some V2 treatment with belt tensioners and a color LCD to make interacting with the machine feel a little more modern than the old Max’s monochrome 12864 display.

Like the other Creality Neo printers, the Ender 3 Max Neo includes Creality’s CR Touch bed-leveling probe and the enlarged corrugating heat sink. It also has the full-metal Bowden extruder but, uniquely in the series, has a filament sensor that’s carried over from the original Ender 3 Max; so you can be sure running out of filament won’t ruin your larger prints.

For these improvements, we’ve lost a bit of build volume off the top. The Max Neo has a print volume of 300 x 300 x 320 mm – 20 mm shy of the original Max on the Z-axis.

Red Pill Blue Pill

Creality Refreshes Original Ender 3s With Its New "Neo" Series

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The more plain-Jane Ender 3 Neo made a case for itself with its low release price. But, now, at ~$175 (only $10 less) it’s less competitive.

The only other features to change from the original Ender 3 are the Neo’s enlarged corrugated heat sink and a new print bed. Where the original Ender 3 has a textured sticker on its heat bed, the Neo instead has a tempered glass surface. Much more reliable, and much easier to clean. Otherwise, the Ender 3 Neo is something of an odd revival of a relic.

Red Pill Blue Pill

Creality Refreshes Original Ender 3s With Its New "Neo" Series

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The one and only, the classic, the prodigal son, the 3D printer that won the race to the bottom: the OG Ender 3.

For ages, this was the printer to beat if your piggy bank was running low but you needed to put out decent parts. The Ender 3 is an impressive system for one that cuts out every frill imaginable. Although Creality appears to have phased the machine out of its store, you can still find it through third-party resellers for just ~$190. Though it’s certainly cheap, our experiences with the hardware and its performance have always been pleasant – if you calibrate it regularly. It’s a basic single Z-lead screw printer that runs a Creality MK8 Bowden extruder and prints onto an old-school textured sticker print surface.

One thing to be cautious of is its cheap power supply. It’s lower quality than most stock PSUs, which could make it unreliable or even a safety risk.

Good Printer for a Great Price

Creality Ender 3 Review: Best 3D Printer Under $200

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The Ender 3 Pro was the second Ender 3 printer and stepped things up just a smidge from the classic.

Creality heard early complaints about the subpar power supply and swapped it out for a trusted MeanWell unit on the Pro. However, do note that Creality no longer sells any 3D printers with MeanWell PSUs. It quietly swapped the hardware out for its own UL-certified PSUs in 2022.

The Ender 3 Pro also tried to update the original Ender 3’s print bed, swapping the fixed sticker for a removable “C-MAG” sheet. Its textured surface improves adhesion somewhat over the Ender 3’s bed, but it wasn’t a hit with everyone – some users complained it’s flimsy and frustrating to use. The printer does have a little more heat potential at the hot end than the original Ender 3, being able to reach 255 ºC (15 ºC more), but it’s a pretty insignificant difference.

Other than these small changes, the Ender 3 Pro is a straight continuation of the original for $236. You’re better off with the cheaper Ender 3 Neo, if you ask us.

Low-Budget Pro

Creality Ender 3 Pro Review: Great 3D Printer Under $300

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The Ender 3 V2 stepped things up a little more from the Pro, and is one of our all-time favorite 3D printers. It implemented small but meaningful upgrades, but isn’t priced competitively at the current ~$200.

Creality finally nailed the print surface when it introduced a carborundum glass print bed on the Ender 3 V2. It performs very well, with good adhesion when heated yet easily releases prints after cooling. The V2 also made maintenance a little easier for users by including belt tensioners – a convenience that saves time on one regular maintenance task.

The Ender 3 V2 got a slightly updated look, too. It has a flashier fan shroud than the standard Ender 3 and comes with an updated color UI that moves away from a classic Marlin display in favor of something more custom. Creality also took that opportunity to update the firmware and include print recovery; which was included in all subsequent Ender 3 releases.

At Least It's Not Called "Pro"

Creality Ender 3 V2 Review: Best 3D Printer Under $300

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The Ender 3 Max offers something a little different from the other original Enders. If you’re looking for more space to work with than a standard Ender 3’s build volume, the Max steps things up to 300 x 300 x 340 mm – adding 80 mm on the X and Y axes and 90 mm on the Z.

Otherwise, the Ender 3 Max mixes features of the other Ender 3s around. It comes with the carborundum glass print bed, but returns to the classic Marlin UI (the print recovery function is carried over). This was also the first Ender 3 that came with a filament sensor, which is ideal if you plan to make use of its generous build volume.

Creality appears to have phased the original Ender 3 Max out on its store, but it may be available through third-party resellers.

Bigger Is Always Better

Creality Ender 3 Max Review: Filling the Void

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Sprite Direct Extruder

Creality’s Sprite direct extruder was a standout feature when it launched with the Ender 3 S1. We typically prefer direct extrusion for its high degree of filament control, but the added weight to the printhead can be a problem. The Sprite, however, is just 210 g including its touch probe – a mere 60 g more than the Ender 3 V2’s printhead. Competition has stiffened in the past year, but the Sprite is certainly still a quality extruder.

But, in typical Creality fashion, the Sprite extruder offering is somewhat complicated. On launch, it had three versions with the lightest version mentioned above including a Teflon throat tube that limits hot end temperatures to 260 °C. To print at higher temperatures up to 300 °C, you’ll need the Sprite Extruder Pro: an all-metal variation that weighs 334 grams and is featured on the S1 Pro. Mind that you aren’t cranking the somewhat deceptively marketed “full-metal” variant featured on the S1 Plus up higher than 260 °C. Though it has a metal body, it still uses a Teflon throat tube.

And that’s just the Sprite on release; complicated enough to merit a Sprite deep dive article. Creality has since had all sorts of fun with the Sprite’s heat sink, often sacrificing its pleasing small form factor. Now the hot end is getting more options, too, as the KE comes with a new ceramic hot end. If it’s important to you, be sure you know which version you’re getting.

Bowden MK8 Extruder

Most of the Ender 3 series’ models use Creality’s MK8 Bowden extruder. Bowdens are carried by the X-axis extrusion, mounted to its left side close to the printer’s lead screw to help limit problems that weight along the printhead might otherwise cause or exaggerate. Filament is pushed from the side-mounted extruder through a PTFE tube and to the hot end.

Since budget 3D printers try to eliminate components wherever possible, they don’t often boast rigidity up to the task of whipping a direct extruder around the print bed – especially when they were on the heavier side. Though Bowdens are exceptional at the task of weight reduction, they do introduce more failure points along the elongated filament path both in the PTFE and where this pathing meets the heat break. This is why people will often recommend direct extruders for printing with flexible filament, since the nature of bendy materials makes problems along the filament path more likely to occur.

Which is Better?

Though we at All3DP often prefer direct extrusion, there really isn’t an answer to which extruder is “better” – both in terms of Creality’s offerings and in general. It’s true that the short distance between where force is exerted and extrusion occurs in direct extruders can reduce the risk of clogs and help exert more precise control over material extrusion, but added components to support more printhead weight (like a second Z-axis lead screw and accompanying stepper motor) increase other failure points, maintenance, and cost.

At the end of the day, this decision comes down to personal preference. Will you be working with flexible materials frequently? Then a direct extruder is your best bet. Would you prefer to reduce cost and maintenance? Go for the Bowden.

Leveling has changed a lot in recent years, and the latest Creality systems have reaped the benefits. The Ender 3 V3 series uses a CR Touch probe to create a mesh of the bed and a strain gauge attached to the heat bed to automatically set the Z offset, making the bed leveling process truly automatic. Given this, Creality has implemented a fixed bed for the V3 – killing the bed tension knobs.

The Ender 3 S1 and Neo lines aren’t quite there. They also come with Creality’s automatic bed-leveling touch probe, the CR Touch, out of the box, but it’s up to the user to set a Z offset. The systems both include bed tension knobs, and you may want to tram them from time to time but, otherwise, it’s just about adjusting the offset.

For any system before the S1, you’re looking at a fully manual, tedious leveling process out of the box. Beyond being tedious, it can be a difficult process to get a handle on. If you’re looking for something beginner friendly, be sure you’re at least getting a touch probe.

Spring Steel Sheet

Since the Ender 3 S1 series, Enders have adopted the reigning champion of print surfaces – magnetic spring steel sheets.

These print beds have been in use for a long time on high-quality 3D printers like the Original Prusa i3 Mk3S+, but didn’t see widespread adoption in the budget sector until relatively recently. Even though the bed still uses a PC coating, it’s much better than Creality’s previous attempt at a flexible print surface. In our Ender 3 S1 review, we praised the new bendy bed for its quality, although it can be tricky to line up on the print bed again. The latest Ender 3 V3 series has solved this with some simple notches in the print surface and alignment pegs on the heat bed.

Carborundum Glass

Carborundum glass, or tempered/textured glass, has been a favorite print bed for some time now. It’s relatively affordable to make, provides generally good heat distribution, and bonds with extruded materials very well without intermediaries like glue or tape (glue is often still helpful for the trickiest materials). It also has the neat benefit of making prints pop off the surface without intervention when it cools, but that can also be of detriment if you experience a power out.

Textured Sticker

The original Ender 3 has a rough sticker-backed sheet adhered to its heat plate. It has the advantage of putting little material between the heat source and build surface, which can help speed up print bed heating and improve temperature uniformity.

Such print bed surfaces were very popular in 2018 – when the original Ender 3 was released – as an extremely low-cost option with better adhesion than the blue tape and plain glass. Unfortunately, these solutions can be unwieldy. Chiseling tricky parts off any sort of tape can easily tear the thin material, and removing it to replace is a chore. This dated build surface doesn’t mean the original Ender 3 isn’t a viable first 3D printer anymore, but it should make the print bed a priority in your line of upgrades.

“C-MAG” Magnetic Sheet

Creality’s “C-MAG” magnetic sheet was a bit of a swing and a miss if you ask us. The Ender 3 Pro’s flexible magnetic plates are fantastic for quick swaps and to pop tricky prints off the surface with a little bend. Unfortunately, unlike the now-popular spring steel sheets, these C-MAG sheets are rather unwieldy. Like regular PEI the surface is easily damaged, and some materials (like ABS and PETG) can still bond a little too well.

Similar surfaces, like the magnetic BuildTak FlexPlate do this job better than Creality’s C-MAG, but we vastly prefer spring steel magnetic print beds.

There are a few obvious mainboard differences among the Ender 3s that we can point out. The Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro ship with non-silent variants of the V4.2.2 using A4899 stepper drivers whereas the V2 and Max ship with much quieter TMC2208 drivers. Creality also sells a mainboard upgrade, the V4.2.7, which would be a fair upgrade to the stock Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro if purchased when they shipped with a V1.1.5 mainboard that missed some important features like thermal runaway protection. But, now that all the Ender 3s ship with at least a V4.2.2 mainboard, there’s little reason to upgrade. That said, you do get TMC2225 stepper drivers with the V4.2.7, which are comparable to the TMC2208s but come in HTSSOP packaging that Trinamic says offers better thermal resistance.

The Ender 3 S1 series comes with a different mainboard: the V2.4.S1, which is labeled “CR-FDM-v2.4.S1_v301” on the device. Just like the V4.2.2, the V2.4.S1 uses TMC2208 stepper drivers but also has a new USB-C port. Unfortunately, it isn’t compatible with printers outside the S1 series.

Compared to the V4.2.2, Creality says the V2.4.S1 is designed to be friendlier for modular installations, more resistant to interference, and includes an interface intended to easily switch between 3D printing and laser engraving. That laser engraver’s port resides among the S1’s external expansion ports and seems to be shared with one of the Z-axis stepper motor’s ports on the mainboard.

The Ender 3 V3 series mainboards (labeled CR4NS200320C13) appear very similar to the V2.4.S1, but have changed things to accommodate new features like the strain gauge. We haven’t gotten a look at the KE yet, but Creality has told us that its mainboard is missing the SD card and type-C interfaces present on the SE.

To accommodate Klipper, the KE also has a single-board computer, which Creality describes as an “IC X2000E BGA-270 XBurst dual-core processor running at a frequency of 1.2GHZ LPDDR2 256MB Ingenic”.

Ender 3s, with the exception of the V3 KE, use a custom version of the open-source Marlin firmware, which Creality then releases as open-source itself. Though it’s all Marlin, the default firmware that comes on each Ender 3 is very different, with UI and functionality all varied out of the box.

The features missing between the early Ender 3 printers are fairly minor but can make a difference – features like power loss recovery. Note that the functional differences are pretty minor and it’s a simple procedure to compile and install custom firmware should your printer be missing a feature you want. Don’t let software features hold you back from saving a few bucks on a cheaper system if you don’t mind getting your hands dirty. If you’d like to be sure whether a specific feature comes as stock on a given 3D printer, just check the Creality GitHub repository to find out.

Aside from the standout touchscreen interface on the Ender 3 S1 Pro and V3 KE, the differences between Creality’s interfaces are minor. The color HD UI that came about with the Ender 3 V2 makes the user experience a little more pleasant, but it does the same job as a standard Marlin interface at the end of the day.

It’s worth noting that the original Ender 3 and Ender 3 Pro used to ship without thermal runaway protection enabled. That’s a dangerous feature to be missing. more recent versions of the models should now have this feature enabled but, if you’re unsure, test for thermal runaway protection and flash your 3D printer to a newer firmware version if it’s missing.

Creality OS

Creality’s latest 3D printer in the Ender 3 series, the Ender 3 V3 KE, deviates significantly from past iterations by using Creality’s version of the Klipper firmware: Creality OS.

We’ve received recent iterations of Creality OS with some skepticism. The name first appeared with Creality’s Sonic Pad, a Klipper pad intended to install Klipper on Creality and popular third-party 3D printers and replace their UI. We praised this first iteration of “Creality OS”, but found a subsequent implementation on the Creality K1 wanting. The firmware was significantly redesigned, often buggy, and imposed odd limitations on common Klipper features like macros and network control via the browser in favor of control via the Creality Slicer software.

We’re still awaiting our Ender 3 V3 KE review unit, and so cannot attest to this implementation, but be sure to read our previous reviews that touched Creality OS.

Super Sonic

Creality's Sonic Pad Makes Klipper Installation Super Easy